Antarctica in Black, White and Color

Hong Kong:  By popular request here are some more photos (of the 2,000+ I snapped) during my epic kayaking expedition to Antarctica in November.  For more details on this expedition, and the awesome continent Way Down Under, please refer to my prior post, “Antarctica!!!”

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Phang Nga, Thailand:  Happy 2012 everyone, but my thoughts are still in 2011.  In November I ventured to Antarctica for a kayaking expedition and as the finale of an extraordinary seven month sabbatical.   I am one of approximately 25,000 lucky folks who will visit Way Down Under this season, which happens to be a bumper season because of the centennial of the Amundsen-Scott race to the south pole. Antarctica is a continent of superlatives:  the coldest, windiest, driest, most remote place,  and the largest wilderness area on Earth.

This is my expedition journal:


After travelling more than 30 hours across the Pacific, through two air hubs in the United States, and the length of South America, this morning I find myself at yet another airport.  My immediate worry:  making a 6:20am  Aerolineas Argentinas flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia.   I arrived at the airport at 5am and it was prime time, with crowds and chaos and very long lines.  I worried about missing my flight, especially when two of the four check-in staff decided to take a break.   To my surprise I made it, and despite the seeming airport chaos, the flight departed just ten minutes late.   After four flights across three continents over two days, I and my luggage finally arrive in the world’s southernmost city without a glitch.

I walked around the compact town of Ushuaia for several hours, checking out the clothing stores and book shop.  Somehow I managed to kill the whole afternoon and saw all the Ushuaia I desired to see, including buying some last minute gear such as cold weather gloves for kayaking.  I also visited the maritime museum and penal museum.  It was interesting to learn about Ushuaia’s origin as a penal colony in the late 1890’s.  I then attended a low-key welcome meeting by G Adventures before having a crab and squid dinner with a fellow expeditioner.


This morning I toured the Tierra del Fuego National Park with some fellow expeditioners.   It’s great to be back in Tierra del Fuego (Fire Islands) and Patagonia, and in the Andes, right on the border with Chile.  It’s been a decade since I was last in this part of the world.  While the landscape is pretty physically, it required less than five hours to get a sense for the park.    Back in Ushuaia and after an unsatisfying lunch at the only Irish pub in town, I took care of some loose ends:  getting a Ushuaia passport stamp and getting some peso cash.  At 4pm boarded a bus for the five-minute drive to the M/S Expedition.

I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the ship.   Although the Expedition was built in 1972 as a car ferry, it was refurbished two years ago to a high standard.  I paid extra for my own cabin – why risk the enjoyment of a journey on roommate roulette?   In my stateroom there are twin beds, a large window, a desk and a reading chair.   The bathroom, and especially the shower, is tiny but functional.  After unpacking and exploring the ship, we then attended a safety presentation and drill,  and informational session before setting off around 7pm, an hour late because of the delayed arrival of some staff members.  This is the first Expedition sailing to Antarctica this season.  Most importantly, I put on a sea sickness patch as soon as I got on the ship.

There are 88 passengers on board., 30 below ship capacity.   Most of the passengers are from the Anglo world, with as many Aussies and Canadians as Americans.  Several passengers booked last-minute from Ushuaia including one couple who booked on the day of embarkation.  Most of the passengers are single (with significant others at home), and while there is a large age range, surprisingly the crowd skews young and female, it seems.   There are few couples on board.  I expected the trip would skew much older, especially considering this November sailing and the priciness of Antarctica.   I was wrong.   Dinner includes table service and the food is better than I expected.  As we sailed through the Beagle Channel we passed at a distance the iconic lighthouse of Ushuaia.   After dinner I attended a kayak briefing session.   To my pleasant surprise there are only five passengers signed up for kayaking.


We left the Beagle Channel (which connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans) around 4am and I sensed the more pronounced rocking motion of the ship.   Although I only woke up once through the night, I am still tired today.  As we progress through the Drake Passage, the seas are very mild, a 1 on a scale of 10.   “Drake Lake,”   as they say.  The sun is shining and the weather is beautiful.   This feels more like the Caribbean than Antarctica.   I hope the awesome weather lasts.

Today is fully at sea.   I attended lectures on sea birds of the Southern Ocean –- which emphasized Albatross, petrels, prions –- then went on deck to look at some of the sea birds which are following the ship.   I also paid a visit to the bridge and noticed that one of the crew members was watching “Colombo” on his computer.   (I am not sure which should be more concerning:  his watching  TV, or the choice of Colombo).    I attended a second lecture on Ernest Shackleton, who was a great leader but not-so-great expeditioner.  After lunch the kayaking group had an equipment fitting session to take advantage of the calm seas.

In the afternoon there was also a lecture about the many species of seals we will encounter.   Whales were also spotted today, and over dinner I saw whale spray and a tail.  Whoopee.   The expedition team is very knowledgeable and includes two naturalists, a marine biologist, a geologist, a historian, a camping master and a kayaking master. We also had a captain’s welcome toast and dinner tonight.

Tonight at 9:30pm we passed the Antarctic convergence, the largest biological barrier on earth.  It’s a barrier to many marine organisms, as the water is too cold south of the convergence.  At the convergence colder Antarctic water meets warmer subantarctic water and there’s a sudden drop in temperature.   At Ushuaia the water temperate is 4 degrees celsius.  At 8pm the water is still 4 degrees.  By 9pm it was three degrees.  By 9:30pm it was zero degrees, and it will stay this  cold until we return pass the convergence again on our way back.  Biologically we are now in Antarctica.


This morning around 1am I awoke to much bumpier and lumpier water –- the sea has definitely picked up.   It was a rocking night, but my Kimite sea sickness patch is working just fine.   I easily went back to sleep.

Ship wake-up call occurred at 7:30am this morning.  Outside there are swells of 3 to 5 meters.   It’s definitely a lumpier and much more active sea than yesterday’s Drake Lake.  After breakfast I hit the smallish gym; it was hard work doing exercises such as lunges while the boat rocked back and forth.   I then attended a mandatory briefing session on guidelines by IAATO, the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, on rules to keep the continent pristine.

After lunch we approached Aitcho Island, part of the south Shetland chain,  and had a bonus late afternoon landing .  But first we attended a lecture on zodiac procedures and sized our wet boots.  Jagged black volcanic Aitcho Island was small but beautiful with a colony of Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins.  I witnessed several penguin couples mating.   The male climbs on top of the female, the beaks connect, the wings flap, and the business is quick.

FRIDAY  11/11/11

At 6:30am, the water temperature was – 2 and the air temperature zero, but it felt like -20 due to the strong wind gusts (up to 50 knots or 75 mph).  This morning we approached Brown Bluff,  the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, but due to the very strong winds we could not make a landing.   Persistence and patience, advised expedition leader Susan.   We then entered the Antarctic Sound and the Weddell Sea, and saw many large tabular icebergs, including one more than a kilometer long in diameter.  But the high wind persisted and I was nearly blown away.  Luckily I ate a big dinner last night.  At 11:11am, on 11/11/11 the captain marked the occasion with a whistle blow and a moment of silence for Remembrance Day, the start of WWI.

Due to the wind there were no landings today.   On board there were lectures on penguins and the Amundsen-Scott race to the south pole.  This year marks the centenary of that race and the conquest of the south pole.  In the afternoon we had a presentation from three volunteers who will man the Port Lockroy British settlement for the summer.   At lunch the topic was about the sinking of the M/S Exploration, which was also operated by Gap Adventures.  The Exploration was the precursor ship to the Expedition, and her photo hangs in the library.   I had no idea of this history when I booked this vessel.  Lighting rarely strikes twice, I pray.


This morning we wake up to fog and snow.   The outside decks were covered in snow and were slippery but the wind was down.   We then entered a large pack ice field and the ship was totally immersed in the ice.  We went as far as we could into the ice field then turned around.  The ship’s bow made a “V” impression into the ice, our version of “we were here.”

Once we exited the ice field at Danco the five kayakers finally got to kayak.  It was frightening at first to be on the water, and I was very apprehensive about the whole thing, especially after signing all kinds of insurance waivers and acknowledging everything that could go wrong.  We paddled alongside the ice field and around a couple of ice bergs.   We watched penguins play in the water and saw a seal on the ice.  It was beautiful being on the water and up front and close to Antarctic.   I wore four layers at the top and three layers at the bottom and was warm for the whole kayaking session, though toward the end the weather turned and we paddled back to the ship in a grey blizzard with choppy swells.   The unanchored ship had also moved so it was a bit of s stretch paddling in rougher, colder weather.   The skies were grey and it was hard locating the ship in this weather.  I felt some panic even though there was a safety zodiac dedicated to the kayakers.  Still it was an awesome and not-to-be-forgotten experience.  As Stephen and I clumsily climbed into our tandem kayak, Ian, the kayaking master, said “Todd, you’re in command of this vessel.”  I assumed control of the rudder in the rear cockpit position.

In the late afternoon we moored at Neko Bay, a sublime protected inlet surrounded by mountain. The bay was filled with ice.   There was a penguin colony on one of the more modest slopes.  The kayaking was superb.   The water was pancake flat and calm, and it was such a magnificent experience to gently glide between the ice floes and to just sit on the water.   While we were still in the kayaks, going toward (but not very close to) a glacier, there was an avalanche at the top of a mountain.   Our collective response was “oh shit,” thinking the glacier is calving.   We then paddled over to a small beach where we landed on the Antarctic continent to check out the penguin rookery and to enjoy the vistas.   As the ice was coming in, the captain ordered everyone back to ship.  This unfortunately abbreviated my land visit.

As we left Neko Bay the captain stopped to pick up a buoy which somehow had become lodged on the ice; our version of picking up litter along the side of the road.


This morning we entered Paradise Harbor.  Paradise it was; another bay surrounded by towering snow-covered mountains.  The Chileans have a research center here which is sometimes manned, and there are the remains of a weather structure clearly visible.   We went kayaking again and it was beautiful.  The water was very calm and I could have sat in the kayak all day, drifting in between the ice floes and gently paddling on the mostly shallow water.   Occasionally we paddled through brash ice which I especially enjoy, as the hard-rock ice scrapes against the kayak.   Penguins, petrels, and even a seal were visible.    This is Antarctica as I imagined:  beautiful, pure, pristine, untouched wilderness, covered by ice.   One of the benefits of being the first expedition of the season is the ice cover.  I marveled how no one had been to the spot in which we kayaked for at least half a year, perhaps longer.

This cruise has the feeling of a family trip,  It’s a small ship, with only 88 passengers, so there is a level of intimacy here.  But also because we’re the first cruise of the season, the ice and weather conditions are somewhat unknown.  So while we head to various places, we’re not sure until we get there whether the water is navigable.  So essentially we’re cruising Antarctica, looking for interesting places to stop and see, and there is a high level of improvisation.   Take this morning.   Originally the intent was a landing in Paradise Bay, but the fast ice restricted that.  So instead zodiac tours and kayaking were organized.

This afternoon we sailed into Port Lockroy, which is yet another stunningly beautiful harbor ringed by snow-covered mountains with a couple small islands.  There are Gentoo rookeries on the islands.  This afternoon we made a landing onto the islands, first to visit the rookeries and to witness the penguins nesting and occasionally mating.   Then we went to Port Lockroy where the British maintain a heritage/scientific post, and a gift shop, of all things and in all places.  No place is sacred any more, it seems.  I bought and mailed post cards in Antarctica!

For dinner the Expedition served up a barbecue on an outside deck.

One quirky aspect of the M/S Expedition is a keyless policy.   None of the rooms have keys.  There’s an honor system on the ship that builds a sense of community.   And while I have some very expensive equipment in my room, as do many guests, it’s all been secure.

After dinner we were treated to a beautiful pinkish-violet sunset in Port Lockroy, the end of a fantastic day in Antarctica.


Today we turned around and head back North. Port Lockroy is the furthest south we venture on this expedition along the Antarctic peninsula.   I opted to NOT go camping last night and slept late this morning.   I got out of bed an hour later than the usual 0620.  I am beginning to feel sluggish from all the eating (especially the barbecue last night; I had two burgers and loads of other food) and minimal activity.   My right ear is a little tender, and my throat slightly coarse.   Otherwise I am fine.

As we head north along the Niemayer channel I spot another ship on the horizon.

This morning as we entered Wilhamina Bay the sun sparkled on the snowy mountains.   Hues of blue and white, with a touch of grey, are all that we see.   The mountain in front of us at Wilhamina Bay towers at 7,000 and the plateau leads to the south pole.

Wilhamina Bay was frozen over, so we only stopped for a photo opportunity at the edge of the fast ice.  We skipped Enterprise Island and headed for another bay in the late afternoon, where we landed to visit yet another Gentoo penguin colony and a refugio maintained by the Argentines.   We also went kayaking, and witnessed a seal lazing on a small iceberg.  Unfortunately I did not get that shot as my new Olympus waterproof camera ran out of juice.  Today’s kayaking is the first time I have felt cold to the bone.   The water splashing on my face, the wind, and the numbness in my hands all created an unpleasant situation.   However, as we leave the Antarctic Peninsula tonight, and will spend the next two days in the South Shetlands, the seas will be rougher so this may be my last kayaking day.

What really stands out today is purity – purity of the water, purity of the blue sky, purity of the snow whiteness, sparkling under the brightness of the sun.


Today and tomorrow will be in the South Shetlands before crossing the Drake Passage for the journey back to Ushuaia.  The wake up call came at 6:15am and immediately I layered up and headed out on deck to witness our approach into Deception Island, which is the only place in the world where a boat can venture into the caldera of an active volcano.  The navigation into Deception Island past the rocky walls of Neptune’s Bellows is quite technical and once inside we hung a left and parked at Whaler’s Bay, which was once the site of an extensive whaling and sealing operation.  What’s left are a few decrepit buildings and rusted oil storage and docking structures, a small cemetery, and some whale bones.   Deception Island is said to be the lair of Captain Nemo.

If yesterday was about blue and white, today is about black and white.  After walking along the black snow-free beach of Deception Island, and after some crazy ship mates took the Polar Plunge, we sailed to crescent-shaped Half Moon island which is populated by mostly Chinstrap penguins, some Gentoo and a solitary Macaroni penguin.

We kayaked.   Inside the bay the sea was relatively calm and we paddled around a point and along the island into another calm, flat, tranquil area.   What was most interesting were the deep blue icebergs bobbing about.    Ian, the kayak master, allowed us to paddle through the brash ice –- that was a lot of fun, and technical too, especially as we did not have the benefit of a rudder –- and we got up close to a photogenic iceberg.  We snapped away.   It was a beautiful, secluded spot and interesting kayaking too in and out of the ice.   We then proceeded to make a landing to visit the penguins and see the Waddell seals.   One pup seal, about a year old, was active and stared at me with large round brown eyes.

Last night’s dinner theme was black and white, in honor of our little friends.  While I like to bounce between the tables, I share many meals with Bernie (Oz), Jeremy (US), Julie (US), Billy (UK), and Roger (Sweden).

After dinner we played an Antarctic Bluff vocabulary game.   I went to bed by 10:30, exhausted.


Our evening passage through the Bransfield Strait to King George Island was rough, perhaps the roughest yet on this voyage.  Several things from my desk top crashed to the floor.  Does this portend a choppy passage back across the Drake?  We arrived in Admiralty Bay by breakfast.  Admiralty Bay is the site of a Brazilian base, one of eight bases on King George Island, which we plan to visit.   However, both of the possible landing sites are covered in ice and a landing is not possible at this time, so we’re moored inside the bay to wait out the weather.   To kill the time a special lecture on ice has been arranged.  Alex the geologist mentioned that 98% of Antarctica is covered by ice and 60% of the world’s freshwater supply is in Antarctica.  What’s most concerning is the Arctic and the Antarctic Peninsula are warming at a rate much faster than the global average, though East Antarctica is cooling faster than normal.

Later we went on a zodiac tour – my first – to see a glacier up close.   The glacier had many blue hues and crevasses.  It was cold and windy, and we got rather splashed returning to the ship.   Still, my three layers of socks, three layers of bottoms, and four layers of tops kept me pretty well insulated, including three layers on my head.

At 1:30pm Susan announced that we’re giving up on visiting the Brazilian research station.   The high winds are expected to continue in Admiralty Bay for another 24 hours, so instead we’re heading to a protected harbor on King George Island toward the southwest.   We’re not sure what the conditions are there, but hopefully they will permit a landing –- one last landing –- in Antarctica.  This is the nature of expedition cruising.   We’re totally at mercy to environmental conditions, and improvise as we go along.

We sailed to another spot on King George Island, to the Polish research base of Arctowaki, and did the equivalent of barging in.   A Polish staff member on the Expedition knows the base commander and through his diplomacy the Poles welcomed us for our final landing on Antarctica.  On King George Island we saw Adelie penguins and a mother elephant seal with her two or three-week old squeaking pup.  Later, a male elephant seal wallowed over to the female for some mating on the beach.

After observing the seals and walking past the lighthouse and the tourist shop –- yes, another tourist shop in Antarctica, selling t-shirts! — we were invited into the living area of the Polish base, where the Poles were quite hospitable. They prepared tea and coffee and put out chocolates, snacks and fresh fruit –- scarce fresh fruit –- as they welcomed us all into their intimate living quarters, which is staffed by 11 in the summer and seven in the winter.   There were Rotary placards and other momentous from around the world.   What was so amazing about this base visit is how spontaneous it is.  We literally just showed up    I never imagined, even when I awoke this morning, that I would have tea on a Polish research base in Antarctica.

By 6pm we’re back on ship as the Expedition prepares to leave Antarctica and the South Shetland islands.   Tonight after dinner we enter the Drake Passage.


At sea on the Drake Passage.   Politically and biologically we’re still in Antarctica.   We’re south of 60 degrees south and below the Antarctic convergence.  The seas are relatively calm, for the passage.   While the ship is rocking back and forth it’s all bearable and I seem to have some sea legs.   My sea sickness patch is working well.    It’s a leisurely day, having had a late breakfast.  I’ve sat through lectures on Cretaceans (whales and dolphins)  and then on the explorers and sealers of the Antarctic Peninsula.  I also toured the control center and the engine room, the guts of the ship, and the bridge, the brains of the ship.

Here’s a recap on where we visited on this expedition cruise.   This is a unique itinerary, forged by the specific and variable weather conditions which we faced:-

Aitcho Island – landing

Brown Bluff

Cuverville Island

Neko Harbor – kayaking and landing

Paradise Bay – kayaking

Port Lockroy – landing

Foyn Harbor

Mikelsen Harbor

Whalers Bay – Deception Island – landing

Half Moon Island kayaking and landing

Ferraz Station, King George Island – zodiac cruise

Arctowski station, King George Island – landing

In total we went kayaking five times.


At Sea.   We made great progress crossing the Drake Passage, with a speed about 12 – 12.5 knots and agreeable seas, about 3 on a scale on 10 in terms of severity.   On this final day the kayakers did a photo swap and I attended a lecture on climate change and CO2 emissions.

I’ve been on this boat for 10 nights already.  I am ready to get off the ship and get on with my life.   I’ve scheduled 48 hours in Buenos Aires before heading to Hong Kong.   While it seemed like a good idea at the time I made the arrangements in August, I wish I could just get back home now.

By early afternoon we turned to South America, with the green-covered Andes of Chile and Argentina on the not-so-distant horizon.  It’s a gloriously sunny day, warm and with gentle winds.  Yup, we’re no longer in Antarctica.

This afternoon we had our final kayak debriefing. Ian, the kayak master, presented everyone with certificates.   My certificate said:

Todd Miller was among the hearty few to ply the frigid waters of Antarctica in a sea kayak.  Amidst brash ice and ice bergs, among seals and penguins, through wind and swell, under cloud and sun, he has paddled in a true polar wilderness, and is entitled al the bragging rights thereof.  This document hereby certifies that the above named is among the rare few on the planet who can claim to be an Antarctic Sea Kayaker!


Melancholy morning as good byes are said.  I always feel deflated during such occasions.   While there are a few people whom I really enjoyed hanging out with (Jeremy, Bernie, Billy, Roger, Julie) and look forward to staying in touch with, I’ve had enough. I want to get off this boat already.

Although we’ve been hanging out at the beginning of the Beagle Channel since yesterday afternoon, the disembarkation was delayed.  It took an hour longer than projected.   Luckily, the luggage storage in Ushuaia only had a few pick up times and so I was forced to pick up my luggage at 11:30am, and head to the airport early –- or so I thought.   I checked in per normal, and then as Roger and I had coffee we noticed that my scheduled flight was not listed on the departure board.  Aerolineas Argentinas had advanced my departure time by one hour, and not even communicated this.  While this advance is good for me, I would have missed my flight had I not been forced to pick up my luggage at 11:30am.

I arrived in Buenos Aires on time and with my luggage – no small accomplishment given this airline’s track record.

After finding my way to the Lennox Hotel, in a dicey neighborhood a few blocks away from the Obelisk, I treated myself to a good steak dinner then went to a slick tango show production, Tango Porteno.   The production values were very high and there was a 12 piece orchestra.  I skipped the dinner and just showed up for the entertainment.


Got up early to go to the Buquebus terminal at Puerto Madera.   Took the 8:45am one-hour high-speed ferry to Colonia de la Sacramento, Uruguay.  It’s good to notch up another country!   Colonia is a UNESCO-honored colonial town originally established by the Portuguese.  It reminded me as a small version of Macau, without the casinos but with the ferry.  Upon my return to Buenos Aires on Sunday night, I strolled Puerto Madera, marveled at the beautiful harp-like pedestrian bridge, and had a disappointing dinner (undercut, bloody sirloin steak and mayonnaise-flavored Caesar salad. Yuck.).  Later, I went to the top rated jazz club in BA, Notorious, for a Jazz Fusion session.  They were good (pianist, guitarist, sax, drums) and threw in a little tango as well.

The weirdest sensation is on my first two nights off the boat, I have felt a rocking sensation when I get up at night.  My sea legs are still with me.


After staying in my hotel room at the Lennox as long as possible before incurring additional charges, I played tourist this afternoon, visiting for the second time the cemetery in Recoletta and walking through the parks and sculptures of UN plaza.   I then went to the working class neighborhood of La Boca and to the colorfully painted homes and buildings of the El Caminito pedestrian area.  I also bought some souvenirs, including a soccer ball which ended up getting me into trouble with airport Security.  (Delta deems inflated balls as a safety hazard, and required me to leave the comfort of the lounge, go the back way to baggage claim, where I retrieved the offending ball from my luggage.  I then spent another hour trying to deflate the damn thing).   On my last afternoon I finally got into the vibe of Argentina.  In searching for the optimal tango music CD, a clerk playfully scolded me for not knowing the signature tune from Scent of a Woman.   I then got into a taxi with an exuberant driver, Pablo, who sang in a baritone voice and was rather chatty, though he barely spoke English and I barely speak Spanish.  He even gave me his email address and phone numbers as he dispatched me to the airport for the long journey home, arriving in Hong Kong hours before Thanksgiving.

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A Penguin Home-coming

Phang Nga, Thailand:   As 2011 winds down and I savor a feeling of home-coming after an adventurous year all over the planet, two “penguins” — Fluffy and Ryan, created and named by my son — accompanied me to places far and near.  Fluffy and Ryan even enjoyed their own home-coming last month in Antarctica.

Antarctica is a continent of superlatives:  the coldest, windiest, driest, most remote place,  and the largest wilderness area on Earth.  My November kayaking expedition to Antarctica was extraordinary.  I am one of approximately 25,000 lucky folks who will visit Way Down Under this year, which happens to be a bumper year because of the centennial of the Amundsen-Scott race to the south pole.  Because I had not posted in nearly two months (“Antarctica, here I come…” was my last post until yesterday) I had falsely given the impression that I am still trying to find my way around the ice floes and brash ice.

I will properly blog about Antarctica soon.  That’s one of my New Year’s resolutions. Antarctica is too special a place not to share it as widely as possible.  For now though I remain in home-coming mode, and this post is about the penguin journey.  Fluffy and Ryan travelled the same 5,847 kilometers that I cycled across Europe, and were spotted at various locations, including  a French corn field ….








…. in Munich …








and even on the Croatian coast:






I also discovered that Fluffy and Ryan have a thing for attractive European blondes around bicycles.

Why penguins, you are probably wondering.

Because they are one of the species that will be most affected by climate change.  That’s the other purpose for which I pedaled this year:  to make noise about the urgent need to do something, as individuals, about climate change.   This year even some of the scientists who disputed the science behind climate change have begun to come around, acknowledging climate change as scientific fact.  And the Durban climate change talks, held earlier this month in South Africa, resulted in an agreement to extend the Kyoto protocol and for the first time unites commitments to cut carbon emissions from both the developed and the developing world (namely the US, China and India —  the worst polluters of all).    This is all good.  But even if all the protocols are honored, there’s still a “gigatonne gap” between the pledged amount of carbon emission cuts and the amount of carbon reductions that are needed to stop global warming.

Ultimately it comes down to us, you and me and a whole lot of other people, to make a difference and make a dent in carbon emissions.  But we have to start somewhere.   With a season of new year’s resolutions upon us, I submit that individual action on climate change — whatever the form — deserves to be on The List at midnight on 12/31.

Make some noise on New Year’s eve.  Happy New Year.

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A Home-coming

Natai Beach, Phang Nga, Thailand:   This year of adventure and discovery ends where it began, on this gorgeous stretch of beach facing the Andaman sea.  Nine months ago when I was last at my Thai residence I launched this blog, plotted my cycling route across Europe, and conducted due diligence on Yaowawit, the Thai Student Academy for which I went the distance.  Sitting in the balmy April weather, then it was all so abstract, so speculative, as I imagined how I might get from one side of Europe to another, and privately wondered: could I, would I, should I?

After pedaling across my second continent in as many years it’s befitting that I end the year where this journey began.  At home in Thailand.  It’s been quite a home-coming.

Two days ago the leaders of Yaowawit, Sabine and Bill, paid a visit.  In what is becoming a tradition on Natai beach, I organized a gathering for our burgeoning beach community and about twenty neighbors came over for wine and cheese and to hear from Sabine and Bill about the good work they’re doing at Yaowawit.  Later that evening over dinner I shared some of my European war stories.  I have many.

Yesterday my friend Dave and I cycled to Yaowawit, which is 69 kilometers (one-way) from my residence along hilly country roads and dense green jungle.  This was an impromptu ride, inspired somewhere between the main course and desert the prior evening.  On the way naturally we were chased by a few dogs.  Naturally, I barked back.

Dave and I were greeted by scores of happy and healthy and energetic Yaowawit kids, all dressed in school uniform and eager to show me a thank you poster they created.  It was a touching occasion and arriving at Yaowawit by bicycle a fitting home-coming, the perfect cap for TransEuropa 2011.

We showed Dave around the Yaowawit campus then had a delicious Thai lunch with Sabine and Bill.  Then a special Yaowawit assembly was called and I stood before all the 100+ children and spoke about my experiences in cycling across Europe on their behalf, and how it wasn’t always easy or fun.  Then the hands came up for questions, and the questions kept coming.  I was impressed by the maturity and by the curiosity of the questions.    Some of my favorites:  What breed of dogs chased me?   Did I see any snakes?  Where did I sleep and eat?  Did I cycle at night?  Why do I like to cycle, anyway?   The kids’ exuberance reminded me why I endured all those kilometers, all those mountains, all those wrong turns, and all that crappy weather to get from Lisbon to Istanbul.

After the Assembly Dave and I then hopped on the bikes for the return journey home.   Of the many things I have learned this year, the joy of coming home is one of the great lessons 0f 2011.  Especially when there’s a precious little boy waiting for you, ready to go ride the waves.

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Antarctica, Here I Come

Hong Kong:  In 24 hours I begin the long journey to Antarctica, taking four flights to hop across three continents to get to Ushuai, the world’s southernmost city.  On Tuesday I will embark upon an expedition ship, spend two days crossing the Drake Passage, and finally reach the shores of Antarctica a week from now.  What’s most scary in all this travel is that I am at the mercy of Delta to get me to Buenos Aires.

On this trip I am trading the bike for a kayak.  It’s been a difficult process winding up for this expedition as I continue to wind down from my Euro cycle.   It took me a while to sort out my kit and cold weather gear in Hong Kong.   It took even longer to arrange for some remedial kayaking instruction in Hong Kong.  I figure it’s better to refresh my paddling skills in the subtropics than on the coldest, driest, windiest continent.   Last Saturday Patrick and I kayaked around Sai Kung, one of the most natural and beautiful areas in Hong Kong, to help me train for this adventure.

If my Euro cycle was all about minimizing weight, it feels this expedition is about maximizing baggage, as I will transport much heavy-duty and redundant winter gear.  In all I will take more than 150 items with me.  And I certainly don’t want to miss the money shot.   I am schlepping with me four cameras and two video cameras.  Just the plugs, cords and batteries for all my electronics gear weigh several kilos.

As I anticipate this new expedition, it’s refreshing to not have to worry about flat tires, wrong turns, or angry dogs.

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More Reflections in the Rear View Mirror

Photo by Halil

Hong Kong:  It’s been exactly three weeks since I completed my Euro cycle and two weeks since returning home.  I am only now beginning to fully appreciate the magnitude of this expedition.  I’ve been on a bike only twice since returning from Turkey, am still trying to moderate my caloric intake, and continue to cringe whenever I hear a dog bark.  It was a helluva journey, but there hasn’t been a day — at least not yet — that I wish I were still pedaling across Europe.

Here are some of my favorite impressions from the second leg (Innsbruck – Istanbul) of TransEuropa 2011.  Some of these photos have not been previously published.

For a photo galley of my favorite impressions from the first leg (Lisbon – Innsbruck) of this adventure, refer to the August 2011 blogpost, “Reflections in the Rear View Mirror.”

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Make Noise

Hong Kong:  On my way back home from Istanbul I read the following article in the International Herald Tribune.  It’s scary and very short-sighted how climate change has dropped off the American radar screen and agenda.  Much noise and action needs to be made.   I highly recommend reading this article from the October 17 issue of the IHT:

Where Did Global Warming Go?

Published: October 15, 2011

Elisabeth Rosenthal is a reporter and blogger on environmental issues for The New York Times.

“IN 2008, both the Democratic and Republican candidates for president, Barack Obama and John McCain, warned about man-made global warming and supported legislation to curb emissions. After he was elected, President Obama promised “a new chapter in America’s leadership on climate change,” and arrived cavalry-like at the 2009 United Nations Climate Conference in Copenhagen to broker a global pact.

But two years later, now that nearly every other nation accepts climate change as a pressing problem, America has turned agnostic on the issue.

In the crowded Republican presidential field, most seem to agree with Gov. Rick Perry of Texas that “the science is not settled” on man-made global warming, as he said in a debate last month. Alone among Republicans onstage that night, Jon M. Huntsman Jr. said that he trusted scientists’ view that the problem was real. At the moment, he has the backing of about 2 percent of likely Republican voters.

Though the evidence of climate change has, if anything, solidified, Mr. Obama now talks about “green jobs” mostly as a strategy for improving the economy, not the planet. He did not mention climate in his last State of the Union address. Meanwhile, the administration is fighting to exempt United States airlines from Europe’s new plan to charge them for CO2 emissions when they land on the continent. It also seems poised to approve a nearly 2,000-mile-long pipeline, from Canada down through the United States, that will carry a kind of oil. Extracting it will put relatively high levels of emissions into the atmosphere.

“In Washington, ‘climate change’ has become a lightning rod, it’s a four-letter word,” said Andrew J. Hoffman, director of the University of Michigan’s Erb Institute for Sustainable Development.

Across the nation, too, belief in man-made global warming, and passion about doing something to arrest climate change, is not what it was five years or so ago, when Al Gore’s movie had buzz and Elizabeth Kolbert’s book about climate change, “Field Notes From a Catastrophe,” was a best seller. The number of Americans who believe the earth is warming dropped to 59 percent last year from 79 percent in 2006, according to polling by the Pew Research Group. When the British polling firm Ipsos Mori asked Americans this past summer to list their three most pressing environmental worries, “global warming/climate change” garnered only 27 percent, behind even “overpopulation.”

This fading of global warming from the political agenda is a mostly American phenomenon. True, public enthusiasm for legislation to tackle climate change has flagged somewhat throughout the developed world since the recession of 2008. Nonetheless, in many other countries, legislation to control emissions has rolled out apace. Just last Wednesday, Australia’s House of Representatives passed a carbon tax, which is expected to easily clear the country’s Senate. Europe’s six-year-old carbon emissions trading system continues its yearly expansion. In 2010, India passed a carbon tax on coal. Even China’s newest five-year plan contains a limited pilot cap-and-trade system, under which polluters pay for excess pollution.

The United States is the “one significant outlier” on responding to climate change, according to a recent global research report produced by HSBC, the London-based bank. John Ashton, Britain’s special representative for climate change, said in an interview that “in the U.K., in Europe, in most places I travel to” — but not in the United States — “the starting point for conversation is that this is real, there are clear and present dangers, so let’s get a move on and respond.” After watching the Republican candidates express skepticism about global warming in early September, former President Bill Clinton put it more bluntly, “I mean, it makes us — we look like a joke, right?”

Americans — who produce twice the emissions per capita that Europeans do — are in many ways wired to be holdouts. We prefer bigger cars and bigger homes. We value personal freedom, are suspicious of scientists, and tend to distrust the kind of sweeping government intervention required to confront rising greenhouse gas emissions.

“Climate change presents numerous ideological challenges to our culture and our beliefs,” Professor Hoffman of the Erb Institute says. “People say, ‘Wait a second, this is really going to affect how we live!’ ”

There are, of course, other factors that hardened resistance: America’s powerful fossil-fuel industry, whose profits are bound to be affected by any greater control of carbon emissions; a cold American winter in 2010 that made global warming seem less imminent; and a deep recession that made taxes on energy harder to talk about, and job creation a more pressing issue than the environment — as can be seen in the debate over the pipeline from Canada.

But it is also true that Europe has endured a deep recession and has had mild winters. What’s more, some of the loudest climate deniers are English. Yet the European Union is largely on target to meet its goal of reducing emissions by at least 20 percent over 1990 levels by 2020.

Connie Hedegaard, the European Union’s commissioner on climate action, told me recently: “Look, it was not a piece of cake here either.”

In fact, many countries in Europe have come to see combating climate change and the move to a “greener” economy as about “opportunities rather than costs,” Mr. Ashton said. In Britain, the low-carbon manufacturing sector has been one of the few to grow through the economic slump.

“One thing I’ve been pleasantly surprised about in the E.U. is that despite the economic and financial crisis, the momentum on climate change has more or less continued,” Mr. Ashton said.

And Conservatives, rather than posing an obstacle, are directing aggressive climate policies in much of the world. Before becoming the European Union’s commissioner for climate action, Ms. Hedegaard was a well-known Conservative politician in her native Denmark. In Britain, where a 2008 law required deep cuts in emissions, a coalition Conservative government is now championing a Green Deal.

In the United States, the right wing of the Republican Party has managed to turn skepticism about man-made global warming into a requirement for electability, forming an unlikely triad with antiabortion and gun-rights beliefs. In findings from a Pew poll this spring, 75 percent of staunch conservatives, 63 percent of libertarians and 55 percent of Main Street Republicans said there was no solid evidence of global warming.

“This has become a partisan political issue here in a way it has not elsewhere,” said Andrew Kohut, president of the Pew Research Center. “We are seeing doubts in the U.S. largely because the issue has become a partisan one, with Democrats” — 75 percent of whom say they believe there is strong evidence of climate change — “seeing one thing and Republicans another.”

Europeans understand the challenges in the United States, though they sound increasingly impatient. “We are very much aware of the political situation in the United States and we don’t say ‘do this,’ when we know it can’t get through Congress,” said Ms. Hedegaard, when she was in New York for the United Nations General Assembly last month. But she added:

“O.K. if you can’t commit today, when can you? When are you willing to join in? Australia is making a cap-and-trade system. South Korea is introducing one. New Zealand and the E.U. have it already. So when is the time? That’s the question for the U.S.”

MEANWHILE, in the developing world, emerging economies like India and China are now pursuing aggressive climate policies. “Two years ago the assumption was that the developed world would have to lead, but now China, India and Brazil have jumped in with enthusiasm, and are moving ahead,” said Nick Robins of HSBC Global Research.

Buffeted by two years of treacherous weather that they are less able to handle than richer nations — from floods in India to water shortages in China — developing countries are feeling vulnerable. Scientists agree that extreme weather events will be more severe and frequent on a warming planet, and insurance companies have already documented an increase.

So perhaps it is no surprise that regard for climate change as “a very serious problem” has risen significantly in many developing nations over the past two years. A 2010 Pew survey showed that more than 70 percent of people in China, India and South Korea were willing to pay more for energy in order to address climate change. The number in the United States was 38 percent. China’s 12th five-year plan, for 2011-2015, directs intensive investment to low carbon industries. In contrast, in the United States, there is “no prospect of moving ahead” at a national legislative level, Mr. Robins said, although some state governments are addressing the issue.

In private, scientific advisers to Mr. Obama say he and his administration remain committed to confronting climate change and global warming. But Robert E. O’Connor, program director for decision, risk and management sciences at the National Science Foundation in Washington, said a bolder leader would emphasize real risks that, apparently, now feel distant to many Americans. “If it’s such an important issue, why isn’t he talking about it?””

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